Route: Track along eastern side of Lake Rotoiti to Lakehead Hut. Lakehead Track along Travers River to bridge, across Travers River, along Travers Track past John Tait Hut, past upper Travers Hut, route to Travers Saddle, route to West Branch Sabine River, Track along river to West Sabrine Hut, backtrack and cross river, Track continues upriver to Blue Lake Hut, becomes route over Waiau Pass, enters hill station, down to Waiau River headwaters, follow Waiau River past Caroline Bivouac to Ada Homestead, join St James walkway. St. James Walkway south to Boyle Village at SH7. SH7 south, Track to Windy Point and Amuri Area School Hut, cross Boyle River, Hope Kiwi Walkway (8km) to Hope Halfway Hut. Track continues up river, crosses on bridge, continues to Hope Kiwi Lodge. Kiwi Pack Track past Lake Sumner, cross Hurunui River by footbridge, Hut No. 2, Hurunui Hut, Hut No. 3, Camerons Huts, Harper Pass Bivouac, Harper Pass, down Taramakau River past No. 4 Lockstream Hut, Kiwi Hut, then south along Otira River to bridge at confluence of Deception River, across Otira River to SH73.
Towns/Services: from Boyle near Lewis Pass, daily buses or hitchiking can take one to Maruia Springs (expensive lodge and cafe), Springs Junction (motel, cafe, gas station store), and Maruia (store and backpackers, although reliability of being open a question). From Springs Junction, daily buses to Reefton, which has everything.
Maps: N29 St. Arnaud, N30 Tarndale, M30 Matakitaki, M31 Lewis, M32 Boyle, L32 Lake Sumner, L33 Dampier, K33 Otira, Nelson Lakes Forest Park (273-05), St. James and Lewis Pass Trackmap (335-06), Lake Sumner Forest Park (274-16), Arthur’s Pass Forest Park (273-01). "Route Guide: Harper Pass--Kiwi Saddle" and "Route Guide: St. James Walkway" by Matthew (NZ Tramper).
Resupply: was originally planned to do the whole section without resupply, but would have been possible by mailing a package to cafe/post at Springs Junction, or surviving on the available fare from the gas station store at Springs Junction (possible but not desirable).
Route Notes:
(1) The route over Travers Saddle is well marked and easy to follow, probably even in poor visibility.
(2) Going over Waiau Pass, the lower third of the scree field you ascend from the valley floor has slightly indended switchbacks, which can be discerned and followed for somewhat easier climbing. At some point, as the scree steepens a bit, a shift to to the dirt/tussock on the left is desirable, but watch for the point where the poles cut to the right for a traverse of the scree field to tussock on the right side, well before the obvious top of the scree field. The rest of way to the top is straightforward and not difficult.
(3) Coming down from Waiau Pass, Sven Brabyn's book describes the initial descent as over "easy rocky ribs" which translated to several category-3 (or even 4?) rock downclimbs of perhaps 3-7 meters height, down cracks with no obvious footholds or steps. I found it possible to get down these climbs with my pack on and with great patience and care, but did have a cord handy in case I needed to lower my pack ahead of me. A fall down one of these climbs could potentially be disabling.
(4) Waiau Pass is not a place for solo trampers. I would not do it again alone. Any disabling injury near the top could be fatal, as it would be hard to get to water and rescue before dehydration and/or exposure set in could be quite uncertain due to weather and other delays, even with an EPIRB signal. The pass does not see many trampers (perhaps one party a week in high season?).
(5) Descending to the Waiau River just at Waiau Forks, when the stream from the left is reached, cross the stream to a cairn on the other side rather than following the track down to the river. The cairn on the other side of the stream leads within a few hundred meters to the Waiau Forks Camp. Right from the camp, cairns soon indicate a crossing of the Waiau River to the true right.
(6) Descending into the Waiau River valley, the track is very poorly marked and overgrown, but possible to follow by feeling with the feet and occassional glimpses through the bush to the ground. Great care is needed to follow the track, and it looks much harder to follow in the opposite direction, going north over Waiau Pass.
(7) Permission is needed from St James Station (03) 315.7066 to come down the Waiau River valley to St. James Walkway. They are very concerned that no one come near the buildings of Ada Homestead at Ada Flat. To avoid the homestead, follow this route: As you approach within 1-km of the homestead, the dirt vehicle track divides. Take the left fork and follow along the river bluffs to a gate on a fence which stretches all the way across the river (the first fence reached/seen this side of Waiau Pass). Go through the gate and immediately veer to the left, down an obvious track down to the river flat at the bottom of the bluff. Contiunue across the flats towards the left edge of the forest patch surrounding Ada Homestead, and then at the forest patch veer straight towards the Ada River to get to the St. James Walkway. Actually, from the forest patch if you aim for a lone tree to the south-west, it appears you come to a good spot for crossing the Ada River, although I was able to cross about 200m south of the planted line of trees heading from Ada Homestead to the Ada River.
() The route through Lake Sumner Forest Park is not all-weather. Creeks en route can flood, and the Otehake, Taramakau, Deception and Mingha river crossings can all be difficult after rain. The route uses a flood track up the side of the Otira River to the Deception River footbridge, which is overgrown and needs maintenance.
Page updated February 12, 2004